Blog

Kestrel’s Outer Hebridean Cruise started in Ullapool, a quiet fishing town on Scotland’s West Coast.  Upon our arrival however, quiet it was not! The occasion of the Skiff World Championships meant a large party was planned on the pier! Ceilidhs in Scotland it would seem are dominated more by heavy bass beats than fiddles! Still, a hearty rendition of Auld Lang Syne was a fitting end to the night and a fitting start to the trip. A small but intrepid crew had a hard time getting back to Kestrel out on her mooring in the bay with ‘Fat Pidgeon’, Kestrel’s tender, performing no fewer than four 360 degree pirouettes on the way. This was blamed partly on the lack of oars and partly on the previous crew who had left us half a bottle of Talisker single malt whiskey! (Most inconsiderate, especially as Kestrel was consigned to a mooring a considerable distance from land!)

It was blowing a F6 the next morning so rather than heading out across the Minch we turned South to explore the many stunning sea lochs along the Highland coast. Our very capable crew soon got to grips with beating into the wind and waves and with the no.2 and two reefs soon becoming the no.3 and three reefs we had a wonderful time, with Beth taking the honour of fastest helm of the trip as Kestrel stormed into Little Loch Broom at over 7 knots!

Little Loch Broom on a speedy beam reach

Loch Ewe on our third night provided a stunning anchorage closely guarded by a resident population of surprised and indignant seals! Seals are crying out to be named; many proposals ensued, none of which seemed more fitting than ‘Oliver’, a suggestion which the skipper took to be a sincere form of appreciation on the part of his crew. All seals were henceforth to be known as Oliver.

An 'Oliver'                                                                                                    Skipper (or seal),First Mate and willing accomplices Beth and Hannah,Loch Ewe

Loch Torridon is easily the most stunning sea loch of all and offered us a dramatic approach of swirling clouds and rays of evening sunshine on the steep crags all around. The pretty anchorage we found just into the Upper loch also proved to be fruitful for the hunter-gatherer: we returned from a morning walk to Loch Sheildeag with ‘Fat Pidgeon’ heavily laden with the most enormous mussels, (or ‘Olivers’, as by now all living things in the sea were named Oliver) we had ever seen, gathered from the rocks nearby! A quiet afternoon sail to Rona was industriously spent using the tool kit to scrape off the barnacles so as not to spoil the sauce. (Apologies if anyone finds the tool bag smelling vaguely of shellfish!)

Kestrel at anchor, Upper Loch Torridon

The anchorage at Acarseid Mhor on Rona is highly recommended to anyone visiting the east coast of Skye. A difficult approach through rocks, during which a Stag (or ‘land Oliver’) was sighted, leads to a stunning and secluded place where Matthew pulled off a demonstration of considerable culinary panache – mussels with cream, leek and white wine sauce! This was a messy undertaking however so a bucket of seawater, garnished with lemons, was provided for dipping our sticky fingers. A class act if ever there was one! The evening was perfected by a midnight walk to watch the sun set behind the islands and the stars come out over Skye as we lay side by side in the springy heather.

'A demonstration of considerable culinary panache' - pity about the table manners

Our first week was nearly spent, and the gin, which had already been re-stocked once, was running dangerously low. All hands to the sheets and guys for a downwind spinnaker run to Kyle of Lochalsh! Here ‘crewman Playford’ endangered the stability of the gin fund by recklessly purchasing a book on Sea Angling for the sum of £1 which has now been added to Kestrel’s library with a prologue by the crew. Do take a look!

Amazing fog banks in the Sound of Raasay                                            Under the bridge to Skye

The next morning, bidding goodbye to Tom and welcoming Monica, we set off on a 65 mile pilgrimage to Dunvegan on the NW corner of Skye, midway point to the Outer Hebrides! As the Sun set over the pastel silhouette of Lewis and Harris to the soundtrack of the Pirates of the Carribean, we switched on the navlights and radar, Thea (our sail trim genius) took one last look at the tell-tails and we sailed into the night.

Due to an increasing lack of wind, we only managed one night in the Outer Hebrides, but the Wizard Pool on South Uist was more than enough to whet our appetities to return another Summer. As was Alexis’ legendary Rum cake (possibly the best cake in the world). Speed bonny boat like a bird on the wing, over the sea to Skye - Loch na Cuilce is said to be the most beautiful anchorage in the world!

Kestrel at anchor in Wizard Pool, South Uist                                                        Moonrise over Wizard Pool

If you’re only going to visit one place in the Scottish Islands, Loch na Cuilce must be the first contender. Lying right beneath the Black Cuillins and with a waterfall tumbling down into the bay, things could not be more dramatic and a morning shore party was obligatory. What was intended to be a quick walk turned into a glorious expedition to Loch Coruisk, a freshwater loch ringed in by the Cuillins on all sides. The first party were not expecting to swim and not equipped with swimwear or towels. But finding the temptation too much, Beth Oliver and Gwen now have a new part time occupation as underwear models! Those left on ‘sexy’ Kestrel witnessed a strange sight as three figures emerged over the ridge, seemingly in the nude. “Quick! Get the binoculars!!” At the realisation that these were in fact the underwear-clad missing crew members, a peal of hilarity rang out over the loch. What’s more the ‘emergence’ was perfectly timed to coincide with a boatload of 30 tourists! As Matthew succinctly remarked from the deck, enormous zoom lens in hand, “consider yourselves papped!” Cambridge University Yacht Club must be the talk of the Isles!

Kestrel anchored in Loch na Cuilce, Isle of Skye